Good Dye Mite – Christchurch to Uluru

First thing,

Happy Birthday to you
Happy Birthday to you
Happy Birthday dear Kate – 11 years old now
Happy Birthday to you.

Also a belated Happy Birthday to Jennifer

And, although it is not celebrated here……….Happy Valentine’s Day to all our Valentines!

Where were we?

We left Christchurch after first checking out vistas from above the city by taking the gondola up the mountain and then dropping Rhoda the Road Maggot at the airport. The previous night we happily grabbed back $50 each for our bikes, especially UBPofS (see previous entries).

Arrival in Cairns was late in the evening and we still broke out in a sweat! At this time of year you don’t want to do much physical exercise. Happily, the hotel air conditioning kicked in quickly. Up early to catch the bus to the Kuranda Scenic Rail, an antique-type train that took us up into the rainforest. After lethargically wandering around the village – we will no longer complain about Ottawa’s humidity index – we grabbed the Skyrail (another gondola) down over the rainforest to sea level. Amazing! After lunch we visited an Aboriginal cultural centre where we had various shows and demonstrations. Sir Douglas again found himself on stage dancing away…is there a theme here?

Yesterday was spent on the Great Barrier Reef snorkelling off a platform our boat motored/moored to for the day. Aside from having to wear what they call Stinger Suits (a defence against jellyfish in the area but which made us look like giant blue telly-tubbies), it was one of the most fantastic experiences we have had. The reef is incredibly beautiful with all sorts of fish darting here and there.

Today it was up early in bucketfuls of rain and into the interior where we sit waiting for our trip to the Kata Tjutas (the Olgas Gorge) and Ayers Rock, now called Uluru, its Aboriginal name. It is hot and clear here with the vibrant colours of the red earth. The only drawback is the flies that will get up your nose and mouth if you don’t wear nets around your face until sunset.

On to OZ

February 10, 2009

Time to say goodbye to New Zealand.

But first, apologies for no pictures. The computer connection in Christchurch is not cooperating.

Tomorrow we fly out to OZ and we are getting excited about the next phase of our journey. Before we go we need to tell you that New Zealand is a most wonderful country to visit. The people are open, helpful and friendly, the landscape is truly spectacular and changes more quickly than we ever imagined from seacoast to rainforest to alpine peaks and glaciers. We have especially enjoyed the South Island and would return in a minute were it not so far.

We took time visiting Dunedin and checking out the Scottish heritage they speak of. It’s true that in some places you would almost think you are in Scotland with the stone crofters cottages along the road. Cousins of those old Ottawa area stonemasons also emigrated to southern NZ. In fact, a lot of our immigration heritage was paralleled here with British subjects colonizing the area. The difference we have found is that the Maori seemed to have gotten a better break than our North American natives, and have a stronger presence in society. Very interesting history, the Maori colonization of NZ.

Forgot to mention – some time in Dunedin was spent visiting a walk-in clinic where Dr. Katherine Somebody-or-other gave me some antibiotics and prednisone (singing bass now) to clear up the ear infection so that I can fly tomorrow. More on that later!

We visited the globular Moeraki rocks on the coast north of Dunedin. Fascinating! They were formed millions of years ago, pushed up with the volcanic activity and then when the land eroded next to the shore, they just popped down on the beach.

On to Mount Cook, figuring that since we had been SO lucky about the weather that perhaps we wouldn’t see it at all and would have only another potentially beautiful view. But lo, there it was! We took too many pictures of course. The Tasman Glacier next door is apparently the largest one outside the Antarctic. Beautiful ride in and out.

On to Christchurch where we are now. Today was spent touring the city central after having ridden Doug’s trusty steed and my Ugly Bikey P of S into the city. UBPS decided to have numerous flat tires on me today but heh heh, we get to sell her back to some other poor fool this evening. Christchurch is an interesting town with the Avon River running through it and little boats punting along it. We took some time to go to the city museum where Pat tried out the penny farthing bicycle. We then attended the Evensong at the Christchurch Cathedral, directed by Brian Law, former director of the Ottawa Choral Society. We met him, had a handshake and gave him hello from early OCS members. He produced a beautiful sound with his boys’and men’s choir.

Now, on to OZ!

Into Middle Earth

February 7, 2009

Anyone who has watched The Lord of the Rings will probably recognize this scene. It is one of many on the South Island that could have – and probably did – serve as the backdrop for the Hobbits, Orcs and other creatures of Tolkien’s imagination brought to screen life in Peter Jackson’s film trilogy. In fact, on one of our excursions up and down the Dart River near Queenstown, guides were able to point out spots where LOTR scenes were shot – and where about three commercials a week are filmed. More later about the Dart River outing.

We have spent the last three days at Queenstown, the happening centre of NZ for anyone into outdoor, usually strenuous activities. Bungy jumping was invented here, along with a number of other crazy pursuits geared to people who are usually young and consider themselves immortal. Geezers like us are welcome, but our bodies pay for it.

First, a little aside. We forgot to mention our visit to Lake Matheson, which offers spectacular reflections of Mount Cook (Aoraki in Maori), NZ’s highest peak – that is, if it’s a clear day. It wasn’t, and so we were content with admiring what we like to call potentially beautiful views through a thick bank of mist and cloud. Doug claimed that the mountain had been taken away for cleaning, but few believed him.

Back to Queenstown. Our first activity was a horse trek in the nearby Hunter Valley, led by Chris, a young American freshly graduated from college and doing the fun job abroad thing before settling into a career. For two hours we walked, trotted and cantered (well, the horses did) through breathtaking terrain, up and down steep slopes, and through shallow streams. Pat’s horse Morgan could best be described as a trotter which her backside can attest to, while Doug’s horse Dudley insisted on snacking on every tuft of grass within reach instead of concentrating on the task at hand. Neither one of us had ridden for quite a few years, so we had a few tender bits on our bodies when the excursion was through. Again, though, it was worth every bone-shaking moment.

And so to our second day’s activity in Queenstown, an obligatory visit to Milford Sound, a gigantic glacial fjord on the west coast where about 6 metres of rain falls per year (yes, that’s 6,000 mm!). As other friends who visited Milford previously told us, they had to deal with heavy rain and mist. We expected no less. But what to our wondering eyes should appear but one of the sunniest and brightest days of the year, an occurrence that even had the tour boat crew marvelling. Result: spectacular views of sheer rock walls, cascades, fur seals lazing on the rocks, deep aqua waters against snow-capped peaks, all under a brilliant sun. The bus and boat tour from Queenstown and back took 13 hours, but every moment was worth it.

Finally, we signed up for a jet boat ride up and an inflatable canoe ride down the Dart River. What a blast! First the jet boat pilot, Bill, raced along at speeds in excess of 60 km per hour in water no more than 8 cm (3 in.) deep, slaloming around sand bars and monster-sized rocks, and then topping it off from time to time with a 360 pirouette that gave all of us a good soaking. Then it was onto shore to pump up the canoes (called funyaks) and paddle our way downstream on the cold waters of a glacier-fed river. The river was down quite a bit, so we often had to climb out and drag our crafts over gravelly bits, but it was a huge amount of fun. Of course we discovered muscles we had not used in some time. We should have received the award for steering the straightest course, two old Scouts plowing on while others spun here and there in the wind. We also made good friends with a denizen of NZ fauna, the sandfly. It is apparently a relative of the Canadian black fly, and it has the same talent at finding and biting any bit of skin not protected by insect repellent. Our trusty bottle of Muskol got a hefty workout.

We are now in a campground in Dunedin, the Edinburgh of the Antipodes where this afternoon we visited yellow-eyed penguin adolescents in a nature reserve, where local naturalists are struggling to save this endangered species. We now have our sights set on Christchurch where our NZ adventure will end and we will fly to the next chapters in Australia. The memories are accumulating fast.

From sea to ice

Well, here we are on the west side of the south island after driving through what is called Buller Gap, complete with a “swing bridge” (what we would call a rope bridge) over the chasm. I (Pat) have to confess I walked out as far as the drop off started and immediately turned back. Sir Douglas the Fearless continued on his swaying way across while I was content to stand with the sand flies and other fearful ladies and watch from afar. After that we visited Pancake Rocks where the limestone was laid down in thin layers was exposed in pancake-like stacks by the eroding action of the sea.

Before I go on, for our friend Carol, yes we have visited a winery, the Mission near Napier and bought some of their Syrah. Yum!

Some of you have asked about Rhoda the Road Maggot, our trusty VW 2004 6.6 metre camper van, complete with stick shift on the left. It is actually fairly easy to drive and handles well on the hills. We just put it in a lower gear and off and away! The benches inside make up into a bed at night. There is a gas stove and grill, a microwave, fridge and lots of storage space. We even have an office (front of the van). The table becomes part of the floor of the bed. Quite well planned out actually.

Yesterday we motored up toward Abel Tasman Park, up what is called Takaka Hill to Nguara Caves. We are not sure, but the twisty and steep road to the caves may have inspired the Maori to say “takaka” (roughly translated as “saintly defecation!”). During the cave visit our group arrived at the section called The Cathedral where the guide asked for a volunteer to sing to demonstrate the great acoustics. Silly question! Sir Douglas sang Libera me from Fauré’s Requiem. Being of the shy and retiring type, I shut up. After our slalom downhill we drove to an amazing beach where I immediately ran for a swim to ease the tension.

The south island is not crowded at all and the fact we are going in the opposite direction from most traffic helps. Campgrounds are plentiful and never full. We stay mainly in the Top 10 Holiday Parks, all of which are well equipped.

We’ve been getting our heads around the NZ accent. Mainly, they have different vowel sounds. I am Pet over here. Someone mentioned the other day ‘Oh, to be young and futt (fit)’. Car sounds like “cah”, although people in the south add a rolled R. Day is dye-e with more of a diphthong even than we use. You write with a pin and stick with a pen. And the other day we heard our first ‘Goo-dye-mite’.

Today was glacier day, a time to find out if the NZ variety match Columbia back home. We hiked up to both Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers and much preferred the latter. We stayed at the bottom of both, unlike others who take tours to walk on top of them. The Fox Glacier valley reminded me a bit of Yosemite in California with the huge glacial cliffs.

We are in total agreement that New Zealand is an amazingly beautiful country where the topography can change within minutes. The west coast is rainy and the rain forests are full of ferns and moss while at the same time you have towering mountains above you or are two minutes from a beach………and………there are fewer people who live in this country than in greater Toronto!

Napier to Picton via Wellington

January 30, 2009

Our stop in Napier was a treat. Heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1931, the city came back to life as an Art Deco showcase. It has been a popular tourist spot ever since, and justly so. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, although we did need some repairs on the loo in the camper van when it was blocked by a stray piece of plastic bag left in it by a previous user. We’re feeling flush again.

After lovely visits Jan 27 with long-lost family members (Doug’s mom’s cousin and husband in Waipukurau) and Jan 28 in Palmerston North with long-lost friends Morris and Christine whom we first met on a bus tour of Italy in 2004, we pointed Rhoda the Road Maggot south to the capital city of Wellington.

We booked into yet another superlative Top 10 Holiday Park a short drive from the ferry terminal. The next day we parked RRM in the terminal parking lot and hopped on our rusty steeds ( picture of Pat’s Ugly Bikey PofS included for your enjoyment) to visit the NZ capital.

First stop was the Te Papa museum, a striking building on the waterfront that holds a zillion exhibits and displays recounting the geological, natural and political history of ²The Shaky Isles² as this earthquake-prone nation is known. We marvelled at the navigational skills of the Maori, who crossed vast stretches of the Pacific to NZ with little more than the stars, the currents and water-filled coconut shells to steer them to their destination. We learned that some of the early Polynesians who became Maori might have descended from people in Southeast Asia, and that successive waves of immigrants from many areas of the South Pacific made their way here to escape overcrowding and food shortages in their homelands. We walked on a huge illuminated map of NZ that gave a satellite’s-eye view of this small but varied country. We chuckled at a video on NZ’s Golden Days over the last century or so. In short, Te Papa Tongarewa/Museum of New Zealand is a must-see for anyone visiting Wellington.

Other highlights of our Wellington visit were the ride up the cable car to the city’s fabulous Botanic Garden, from where we walked back down to the city along a well-marked path while snapping many shots of the lovely floral displays in every corner of the garden. At the bottom of the hill we made a quick visit to the NZ parliament, known as the beehive for obvious reasons, as you can see by this shot.

We then beetled back to the ferry terminal for the 6:15 p.m. sailing, which some had predicted would be rough because of the high winds. We both gobbled a couple of Gravol as a precaution but the three-hour crossing was very smooth. Our port of arrival was Picton, gateway to the South Island.

Today we took one of the mail boats, actually a high speed catamaran, doubling as a cruise boat from Picton harbour to a jumping-off point for the Queen Charlotte Track, a 67-km walking and mountain biking path that snakes along a long island through dense forest, along high ridges and past breathtaking vistas of the Queen Charlotte Sound. We did a 10-km segment and thoroughly enjoyed the experience: what could be better than tramping through some woods in bright, warm sunshine and ending up at a cosy and elegant country lodge for a cold beer before embarking for a sail back to our little home on wheels?

Auckland to Napier, NZ

January 27, 2009
Happy 85th birthday to Doug’s mom

Happy birthday as well to Pat's brother Bob!

Auckland to Napier

The Mac-0-Van or Rhoda the Road Maggot is chugging right along except for a clogged pipe in the loo which was fixed today in Napier. After leaving Auckland we travelled up to the Coromandel Peninsula east of the city, an area ignored by many tourists, visiting the Hot Water Beach where at low tide you can make a hole in the sand and soak in a hot tub. Problem with the one we felt was that it was too hot! We also took a bracing hike to beautiful Cathedral Cove, so named for the arches formed in the coastal rocks by the eroding action of the sea.

Miscellaneous I: No, NZ doesn’t have sheep on each hill, in fact it is the grape vine which is taking over a lot of former grazing pasture. We did see a sheep shearing demonstration in Rotorua and learned all the various breeds used for the wool or meat.
Rotorua area is mega geothermic with geysers, boiling mud pots in the middle of town, and sulphurous steam vents all over the place. It is also a cultural area for the Maori and we spent quite some time taking in a tour and cultural show presented by Maori performers. You will be happy to note that Doug was appointed Chief for our group and was able to go up on stage and rub noses with some fierce warriors.

Miscellaneous I: For our star gazing readers, no, you cannot see the North Star from NZ, you can see the Southern Cross. And Orion is high in the sky. For the amateur geologists, the hills are much more pointy than ours because they are a good deal younger. For the animal lovers, the seagulls are much prettier. For the fast food buffs, there are McDonalds and Burger Kings and Subways.

As for our bikes, Doug’s red beauty climbs pretty well, but Ugly Bikey Piece of Shit, as Pat now calls her, refuses to do more than clunk along. Going downhill is an adventure where she only hopes that the bike will not fall apart before she reaches the bottom. Pictures of our two-wheeled treasures will follow.

We are into a routine now, breakfast in the van, lunch of sandwiches on the road and then either dinner out or cooked in RRM. There is not much room, but thankfully we are both tidy creatures who keep things shipshape. The campgrounds are great, and the Top 10 Holiday Camp network is inexpensive with great facilities. We are meeting lots of people on the road: Brits, Australians and Kiwis mainly with a few Germans and such thrown in. Canadians here and there, hardly an American in sight. The large attractions receive the buses of tourists from the Orient.

Tomorrow it is on to visit Doug’s aunt and then stay with friends in Palmerston North before heading to Wellington and thence to the South Island. HolHh

We made it!

After about 26 hours in transit, during which we had an intimate association with all ends of O’Hare International Airport in Chicago, we arrived in Auckland to start our adventure. The only thing missing was one of Doug’s bags, which contained most of his clothes, but Air New Zealand came through big time and had the bag at our camper doorstep the next morning.

Speaking of the camper van, it’s a 6-metre minibus affectionately known by some local drivers as a ‘’road maggot’’ (fat, white and slow). Doug stalled it a few times as we were getting used to driving on the left side of the road while puzzling over road maps and finding ourselves imprisoned in massive freeway traffic jams. Needless to say we slept well on our arrival at the Takapuna Beach Holiday Camp, north of Auckland City.

Our campground is beautifully situated by the sea, and we have watched everything from sea kayaks to a monster cruise ship float by.

Our first full day of being tourists saw us take the bus and ferry to Auckland. In addition to going up the famous Sky Tower for an impressive view of the city and the harbour, we went to a local bicycle shop where we expected to pick up two clunkers to use for short trips around the places we will visit and avoid having to drive the camper van everywhere, and then sell them or give them away when we leave. Unfortunately the shop is a bit chaotic and we had to go back at the end of the day to collect and ride them about 20 km back to the campground. Doug fared well for the palty sum of 99 NZD but Pat not so affectionately calls hers Ugly Bikey, a rusted out hybrid that clinks and clanks and occasionally emits a sound akin to a wheeze.

We kept shopping to a minimum because we needed to carry everything back to camp on the bikes, but Doug did purchase a snazzy all-leather hat to keep the sun off. Pat had to walk ahead of him to keep the adoring ladies at bay.

We were awed by Auckland’s amazing harbour where we saw huge ocean going sailing yachts that you don’t normally see back home.

TRIVIA ANSWER: The Chicago airport is named after Butch O’Hare, an ace WWII fighter pilot.




Van comfortable, good thing Doug slim, even has an office (driving area)